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There’s something raw about the people here – the grunge, the voodoo, the underground music scene. There’s history in the streets, bearing evidence of both French and Spanish rule. In a rundown shack tucked away in the French Quarter is Preservation Hall, a no-frills space with wooden benches and the finest rotation of jazz musicians our autotuned ears will ever hear. To leave the city is to find peace. The swamps are surprisingly meditative – a stillness lingering in the wispy Spanish moss trees. Plantations are striking, with big oak trees leading to grand white mansions and looming green pastures. The slave quarters outside invite visitors to peek into the darkest parts of American history. There are ghosts of a different time in Louisiana that most visitors don’t get a chance to explore because they’re on Bourbon Street all day and night. New Orleans is much more than Mardi Gras. Many different worlds and times live here. The hip Magazine Street has every boutique and café the modern consumer needs to visit. The cargo ships on the Mississippi are reminiscent of a slower time of runaway trains and Manifest Destiny.

New Orleans may be a city that takes its time but it won’t wait for you. They have a lot of pride and a lot to prove to the rest of the world that they work just as hard as they kick back. New Orleans is buckets of fried chicken one night and oysters on white tablecloths the next. It’s swanky jazz clubs and dim dive bars. It’s a hurricane and then a new dawn. Expect to leave with resilience in your pocket along with the beads around your neck.