By Marc Larocque

For the nighthawks of Mission Hill and Jamaica Plain, only one spot doles out cheap pizza until 3 a.m. And for those who wake early, this joint offers baked subs and cold sandwiches to take to work or school starting at 10 a.m.

Joseph’s Pizzeria is near the top of South Huntington Avenue, in front of the Riverway T station on the E branch of the Green Line. It’s a place where commuters can come to find respite during a cold, hungry day, to enjoy the greasy foods within and to watch whatever is on the TV, which is usually sports or a Spanish-language soap opera, projected above the small room with barstool-style seating.

The menu is based on the dietary dogma of Joseph Villarroel. Villarroel is a fleshy half-Italian immigrant who came to Massachusetts from Chile 34 years ago.

“Everything I sell is what I eat,” Villarroel said. “If I don’t like it, I don’t sell it. I don’t care if I make money or not, if I like something, I sell it. We only serve good food here. And in these times where there is a lot of violence, and terrorism, people can come here and be happy.”

A perpetual pile of steak shavings sizzle on the grill. French fries are dropped into a vat of trans fat-free oil on command. Fresh dough is constantly mixed until ready for kneading into 12- or 16-inch pies. The list of toppings is voluminous. And the sauce is made from scratch. It’s what Americans like, Villarroel said.

“I want people to grow up on my food,” Villarroel said. “It puts a smile on my face to see people coming back. My food is healthy, and never once has anyone complained or got sick.”

When he came to this area in March of 1973, he said, he learned that submarine sandwiches were handy, tasty and in demand. There were only a few sub shops in the area, he said.

On April 2 of that year, he rented the South Huntington storefront before buying it a month later, with the help of family members who work as staff. Villarroel said his business grew as neighborhood families did. Within a few years, another Joseph’s Pizzeria was established in Mattapan.

Through his profits at the pizza shop, Villarroel funded two of his children’s college educations. His daughter graduated from Northeastern about 10 years ago. Villarroel, who has lived in Mission Hill most of his career, recently moved to Ashland where he will stay into his retirement, he said.

Through his experience with regular customers, he’s seen a change of face in the area. Until about 10 years ago, there were two Irish bars within the block, which generated much of his business. But since then, Villarroel said, much of his business has been replaced by college students.

“There have been more students moving down this way,” he said. “It’s good. It’s just different people. Before, it was more families. Things are getting more expensive.”

While inflation pervades the national economy and housing costs rise in Boston, Joseph’s Pizzeria has remained relatively inexpensive.

Students can be seen there lining up on Friday nights and Saturday mornings, ordering onion rings ($3.14), garlic bread ($2), mozzarella sticks ($4.20) and, for the cheapest eat, the chicken, beef or spice beef empanada ($1.40). Villarroel suggests a more substantial entr’eacute;e, like the 12-inch combination sub ($8.35), which features steak, cheese, sausage, peppers, onions and mushrooms.

The most popular sandwich is the chicken parmigiana sub ($6.95), which consists of a crispy, deep-fried chicken cutlet topped with provolone cheese that melts under marinara sauce, on a roll baked to a golden hue.

Many customers defer to a single slice of cheese pizza ($1.84), which is sold in two styles, regular or Sicilian, Villarroel said.

As Villarroel ambled about his kitchen on a recent evening, he said he was happy a Quiznos opened next door. Curious customers flood over into his business, he said.

“People get to know me,” he said, “and then they know that the food I make is good.”

Joseph’s Pizzeria is located at 8 South Huntington Ave. and is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 a.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Pick-up orders can be made by calling 617-731-9880.