By Kelly Kasulis, News Staff
For those tired of choking on the sugar-dense frosting on their supermarket cupcake or a sip of too-much-chemical iced latte – a bittersweet moment of instant gratification that happens all too often at American food chains – there’s a new place for dessert and coffee near campus, and with an Asian twist.
Open until 11 p.m. on the corner of Massachusetts and Huntington Avenues, Caffebene has received college student fanfare since its New England debut with the Boston location in July.
The menu highlight: a traditional Korean dessert called patbingsu (sometimes referred to as “bingsu” or “bingsoo”), otherwise unknown to the Boston dining scene. Imagine finely shaved ice mixed with a light cream – holding the same consistency as snow – packed into a party-sized bowl among layers of strawberry and topped with sweet, sugary red bean, a scoop of gelato and a chocolate garnish with the popular Korean eatery’s logo. And that’s just one flavor – coffee junkies, cheesecake lovers, tea drinkers and chocolate extraordinaires have patbingsu flavors to satisfy their palates, too.
Considerably better than Paris Baguette Café’s version, tucked away in the new Hmart on Massachusetts Avenue in Cambridge, Caffebene has brought a proper taste of Korea to the Northeastern area, which was previously reliant on shawarma, bubble tea and burritos for multicultural cuisine. Paris Baguette Café, another popular Korean chain, serves up a bingsu with shards of ice that melt into a soup within minutes – and for the same price as Caffebene’s.
At Caffebene, the atmosphere bubbles with loud conversation across small tables and lounge chairs, giving a cool vibe in an environment adorned with trendy stained wood shelving, books standing up under beams of dimmed lights and abundant greenery along its wall trim.
Also on the menu are a variety of coffees and lattes, though it is worth noting that Korean coffee can taste somewhat different – lighter and less sweet – than the typical caramel-mocha, cookie-dough swirlies doused with syrup known to the United States. Non-alcoholic peach berry and lemon mojitos and a notable carbonated lavender lemonade (often called just “ade” in South Korea) pack a satisfying punch of flavor. More adventurous tongues should try the misugaru drinks, such as the misugaru latte or frappe, made of a powder derived from a diverse combination of grains.
The best part about Caffebene is that the menu encourages socializing – although patbingsu weighs in at a pricey $11.95 per bowl, it’s a food challenge for one person to eat solo. Meanwhile, its popular honey breads are served cut into nine tall, fluffy pieces. The best of them is the strawberry and cheese honey bread, topped with a soft, warm dessert cheese, strawberry slices and chocolate drizzle across the plate. Runner-up is the garlic and cheese for those with a savory need – the contrast between a hint of honey and a melted, stringy cheese with herbs is beyond enjoyable.
With 1,400 locations across the world, including 56 in the U.S. and 2 in Mass., Caffebene’s sweet respite from traditional american café cuisine is a refreshing change.
Photo by Kelly Kasulis.