By Andrew Berlanstein
The term “comfort food” means different things to different people. For some, it’s the dish Mom makes when she comes home for the holidays. For others it’s simply what reminds them of their childhood – the good old days when the hardest decision they had to make was whether they wanted a Fudgie the Whale or Cookie Puss Ice Cream Cake.
No matter your definition, comfort food is there to leave you happy and, more importantly, completely satisfied.
For many, “comfort food” can be summed up into one dish: mac and cheese. That’s why Zon’s, located at 2 Perkins St. in Jamaica Plain, has put together the ultimate version of this dish. The restaurant, which sells its food as “Comfort Food with a Twist,” makes its macaroni with fresh farfalle (also known as bowtie pasta) and a creamy combination of farmhouse cheddar and fontina cheeses. This gooey delight is served in a piping hot crock with a crown of perfectly browned bread crumbs ($13).
Zon’s occupies a small, warm space in Hyde Square that is swanky yet intimate. Its deep red walls complement the pressed-tin ceiling to create a cozy, home-like feeling. If you’re not in the mood for mac and cheese, try one of their amazingly succulent grass-fed burgers ($12). Served on a locally baked roll with a side of flavorful fried potato wedges, it is one of Boston’s best burgers.
Breakfast can also be a source of comfort. Waking up after a long night, nothing says “comfort food” like a greasy, hearty, homemade breakfast. Though there are many places around town offering just that, no other has the highly enjoyable and quirky small-town atmosphere of Trident Booksellers ‘ Caf’eacute; at 338 Newbury St., near Massachusetts Avenue.
Famous for their Best of Boston magazine rack and newsstand, Trident boasts a breakfast menu with options ranging from the classic breakfast sandwich to the more sophisticated lemon ricotta stuffed challah french toast.
A favorite is the southwestern breakfast burrito, with eggs, tomatoes, jalape’ntilde;os, refried beans, tortilla chips, onions and cheddar, for $8.75. Don’t miss sandwiches like the fresh mozzarella b.l.t. served with walnut pesto on organic sourdough toast for a slightly steep $10.95 (after all, it’s still Newbury Street).
For others, nothing says comfort like bar food. Most say the sole surviving traditional New England pub is in the South End, at J.J. Foley’s, 117 E. Berklee St. The long-time classic bar, often filled with off-duty cops and Gillette employees, expanded last year into a full-service pub specializing in old-school regional comfort food favorites.
The new dining room is classy, but still casual and separate from the somewhat seedy original bar area.
The pub has an impressive ever-changing Irish-American menu, with options for just about anyone. Check out the well-priced specials, like slow-braised beef short ribs. Appetizers include spicy chicken wings and savory curry fries, which are big enough for a whole meal and great for sharing.
Leave room to try main dishes like fish and chips, which are heavily battered and fried to perfection, and shepherd’s pie, a thick, starchy mixture of lamb, beef, gravy, potatoes and vegetables encased in a deliciously flaky crust. It’s a good thing portions are very large, considering the irresistible selection of draught beer which includes Guinness and local seasonal brews.
Overall, J.J. Foley’s screams comfort. It is the perfect place to meet friends and catch a Red Sox game on the big-screen, while enjoying some delicious food and drinks.
